“Everything is connected, and everything conveys the same idea: we do not need to create the new from scratch, but we can reuse and reinvent the existing, getting progressive fabrics out of discarded ones, translating traditional techniques into innovative lifetime tailoring, turning an abandoned place into an area of creation”. – Alessandro Sartori
An immense industrial building was the theatre for Ermenegildo Zegna XXX Show, formally the Summer 2020 collection. The runway unfolded below extremely high ceilings and sandy floors, that once hosted the Area Falck: a monument to steely modernity that over the years slowly turned into a metropolitan wasteland.
“It is our duty as denizens of this world to live responsibly – says Zegna’s Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori – I want to do it using the creative means I have at my disposal, which extend from the materiality of fabric-making, to the exquisite technicality of tailoring to the highly communicative aspect of show-making”.
The #UseTheExisting mindset stands as the brand’s commitment to use more and more wool and technical fabrics developed by the Zegna textile division with innovative processes from pre-existing sources.
Short-sleeved blousons in dark rust shades worn with matching tailored pants offered a new proposal for the summer uniforms, with season’s fit oscillating between skinny pants and voluminous silhouettes.
Firm yet extremely light fabrics enhance the precision of the lines and the weightlessness of the sartorial construction, with flattened crinkles, while progressive stripe patterns giving rhythm to the surfaces. Macro chiné motifs have a painterly feel, mineral dyes add depth to denim. In keeping with the functional mood, accessories are pragmatic: bold-soled printed boots or derbies; signature Claudio sneakers; wearable notebooks and pouches in small geometric shapes.
The sense of industrial elegance is rounded by the mix of mineral hues of cement, steel, carbon and matt black with earthy tones of brass, rust, red blaze, sand and matt gold and light notes of nude, aqua, leaf green, teal and oxidized copper. Transformation comes to the fore as just another aspect of inclusiveness: a Zegna pillar through and through.