THE DOPE SHOWDistorted Iconographies

Palm Angels Fall Winter 2019,
by Francesco Ragazzi.

   

It’s time to move on and show off sensitive content.
Sensitive as personal, deeply felt, autobiographical.
Palm Angels moves towards other territories, while Francesco Ragazzi summarizes his story through chapters that mix but do not necessarily correspond. An incursion into personal passions and obsessions shapes the collection.
The spirit is coherent: elements taken from different cultures and their respective dress codes meet in uncodified mixes, creating distorted iconographies.
This season, the tailor takes the lead, while the propensity for formality becomes the vehicle for a rebellion measured instead of screaming, yet assertive.
It’s a sartorial with a precise subcultural aura: the iridescent sunburst fabric, zipped closures, square jackets and tube trousers, as well as the frilly blouses in sangallo, are reminiscent of the Sixties. This clean language is constantly distorted with inserts that recall the worlds of fishing and hunting and skiing: multipurpose vest with mesh pockets, belts for tools, articulated trousers. Tailoring and sportswear merge as prints progress from camo caccia motifs to acid-etched tie-dye prints, cut out lettering and equestrian scenes worthy of a very bourgeois scarf. Golden buttons, pinstripe shirts and the air of glitz are just as bourgeois, but the whole balance is not. Marilyn Manson hovers in the air.
Out-of-register formality dominates the scene as the most sensitive content.