For the Spring/Summer 2020 men’s show Mrs. Prada brought her power of energy, provocation and freedom far from home. The latest visionary collection of the Italian maison saw the light within the walls of an 80,000-ton warehouse, Asia’s largest silos; an arrangement of neon lights outlined the industrial shapes of the structure, enhancing the intricate geometries, generating a glowing enfilade shimmering in subtle pastel colours. The models walked along a path that was expanding as far as the eye could see, almost disappearing in the immense architecture of the light.
Entitled “Optimist Rhythm”, this SS 2020 collection was animated by a spirit of boundless positivity and possibility. Optimism posed as an alternative to actuality. The looks mirrored the decontextualisation of the classics; there is a quiet feeling of transgression, utilising colours and contrasts to reconfigure. Color is pure but grounded in a sweet range of neutrals navy, tan, green with the sporadic appearance of vibrant pastels and synthetic hypercolors. As the tones so the shapes are juxtaposed in lengths and silhouettes in order to give the pieces more dimension, creating an arresting effect against the body and challenging the form language of pieces. An elongated shirt can readdress the line of a tailored jacket; proletarian polo shirts and sweatshirts are given macro volume.
The topic of technology as a fetish was obvious in the outmoded tech used as insignia – cassettes, tapes, video cameras a symbology of designs that had outlived their age, almost like the industrial architecture surrounding the show. The Prada logo was remixed with a retro-futuristic mood, imagined new as it may have been in the past.
The romance of history is a form of transgression: its memory can be a rebellion.