The memory of one garment is cut
illustratively into another.


Mutiny is in the air. A manifesto for an age of authenticity, Maison Margiela unifies its Défilé women’s and men’s collections in one co-ed show for spring/summer 2019. Creative director John Galliano identifies the non-conformist values of a defiant new generation and interprets them in dressmaking for a redefined world. A desire to break free from binary stigmatisation motivates the detection of genderless wardrobe staples: the overcoat, the caban, the cape. In contrast, classically gender-specific garments are mutinied through transformative deconstruction. It materialises in figurative ways of cutting, expressed in a constant search for truth amid the curated imagery with which we surround ourselves.
Appropriating the inappropriate, lace shift dresses bonded with transparent georgette evoke the memory of swimwear. Padding accentuates the detailing of garments such as shoulder panels, cuffs and bows. Through slits at the back of the shoulder, tailoring and dresses are swathed in the sleeves of knitwear, nodding at the principle of dressing in haste. Founded in the idea of reverse dressing, the memory of party dresses and bow tops adorn jackets associated with the classic men’s wardrobe.

“New communities are brought to the surface when we detect, celebrate and learn from their perspectives. This is, above all, a statement of compassion. Creativity is our Mutiny.” – Maison Margiela