|The Escaramuzas are traditional Mexican women riders who inspired the Artistic Director Maria Grazia Chiuri for the Dior Cruise Collection 2019. These women, with their strong and sculpted bodies clad in costumes that emphasize their femininity (full skirts, embroideries, bright colors, large hats and flowers), were combining tradition and freedom in a contemporary way. Ample and extravagant skirts are worn with fitted jackets that accentuate the narrowness of the waist, emphasized with a high belt. The collection is punctuated with different materials, such as that great French classic that is toile de Jouy, which has been revisited and modernized, its picturesque scenes featuring the introduction of a series of wild animals, including tigers and serpents.
Lace, whether light or opulent, layered in pleated flounces or perfectly rounded, is set off by black rubber boots that contrast with the more contemporary elements: transformed tulle skirts and Bar jackets possess an assertive air. The tulle blooms a powerful red as well as in superimposed powdery shades.
The power of these united and supportive women, evoking the female crafting groups devoted to the transmission of artisanal savoir-faire in a form of shared creative freedom, prompted Maria Grazia Chiuri to reinterpret a series of typical materials and techniques through a contemporary prism. The collection also references The House of the Spirits, the first novel by the Chilean writer Isabel Allende, with its portrayal of independent female characters.