|Movements and gestures that create postures and signs, making abstractions tangible: Gabriele Colangelo looked at dance as a physical act that produces permanent traces for the Fall/Winter 19/20 Giada collection. In the gestural brushstrokes and fluid choreographies of painter and dancer Caroline Denervaud he found the same quest for energy-drenched harmony of the outward-flexed canvases of Milanese modernist Agostino Bonalumi as well as Vasilij Kandiskij’s supreme sense of conciseness in translating motion into signs. True to the Giada ethos – one that turns complexity into soulful simplicity – Colangelo conveyed such diverse inspirations in a terse exploration of texture, color and volume: one that writes a grammar of weightless shapes thought to follow the body as it moves.
The silhouette is long, layered and liquid, played out on the juxtaposition of firm tailoring and soft dressing.
Long coats are split in the back like ballerina skirts, or wrap the body smoothly. Dresses, moulded knit dresses and jumpers capture movement in the flow of a fold, in the precision of draping; pleating adds rhythm; leather piping draws
|gestural lines on long dresses.
The superimposition of elements – jackets, tops, trousers – promotes a welcoming sense of ease that is highlighted by the amalgamation of dark grey, charcoal and black with warm notes of pumpkin, maple, vanilla and camel lit by touches of mint and lime. Mannish checks, used for coats and dresses, add a dry masculine touch to the discourse, while spontaneous prints draw dance moves allover surfaces. As ever for Giada, touch is as important as sight: the visual balance is a textural harmony of cashmeres, alpacas, wools, silks, wool/silk, plongé calfskin, albino mink.
Dark highlights of tourmaline and onyx on necklaces, earrings, safety pins and belts punctuate the flow with organic traces. Chiseled leather bags with metal details add posture, slender shoes provide presence.
Movement is caught in the shapes, as the body moves.