|London Fashion Week showcases and celebrates the best of emerging designers. Up and coming talents who literally catalyze industry’s attention. Here are highlights from the shows who captivated us for their unique visions: Phoebe English, Chalayan, Craig Green, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy and Iceberg.
PHOEBE ENGLISH collection is founded on attempts at problem solving and being part of the solution, beginning with both the start and the end of a garments life. “Waste.Land.” is the name of the collection: the zero waste of pattern cutting, and the origin of the materials used for the collection. Highlight on the process, recycling, deconstruction are clear references of the collection.
“I have used this time to explore approaches and actions to making work which can be described as attempts at solutions.” Phoebe English.
The conceptual designer Hussein Chalayan has used the word “pre-tension” to explain his collection full of references. The CHALAYAN Menswear collection in fact is inspired by activities which place the body in many different scenarios in an attempt to remove it from its mundane existence. Riding, fetish, experience of nature and army life are all fused to create an undefinable aesthetic in fashion terms.
|Though indelibly connected, CRAIG GREEN‘s nomadic men have begun to disband, and gradually discover their individual power. Steadily a storm of innumerable perspectives is awakened, that gathers and reinterprets new discoveries with instinctive abandon. In its wake, established ideas are pulled apart with a brutal force, that recalls the earliest means of unravelling mysteries. Through this process, a series of bare, exposed, and faint forms come into focus, as fragile idols of symbolic strength.
An imaginary reconstructed in every single detail to sensitize the global injustice is that of CHARLES JEFFREY who wanted to support social minorities including the queer community and less fortunate people. A decadent spectacle made of collapsed chandeliers, an Edwardian bathtub full of pages of torn books and Charles Jeffrey playing the piano. The collection takes inspiration from neo-baroque: crinoline, embroidered clothes, English tartan and patchwork covers in a contemporary interpretation key. A concrete performance, which presents a cabaret created by surreal actors to transport the viewer into another dimension.
ICEBERG FW 2019 Collection has been sporty and sophisticated. The Creative Director James Long takes the ICEBERG family with him to the Italian Alps.