“Particularly young men in Seoul, who are meticulous about fashion, sort of tribal, sort of cultish, and highly accessorized. They have a real passion for a look. Seeing them there reminded me of how we wanted to be in the ’80s and ’90s, of wanting to belong, to have the best of a look.” – Claire Waight Keller
The British designer made her Menswear debut within the blossoming backdrop of Villa Palmieri in Florence. In a mix of ancient and modern world aesthetics, Givenchy’s Menswear collection for Spring Summer 2020 exudes a palpable energy that conveys an infinite sense of urban masculinity, that was born in Paris and now reaches the Florentine hills.
Visions of classicism awakens throughout the garden’s mazes of the Villa, transforming Art Noveau’s bouquets into post-internet glitches. The silhouettes embrace wide volumes in chiaroscuro shades in both the surfaces and the narrations, in which ultra-elaborate designs evoke the dark poetry of Charles Baudelaire’s Les Fleurs Du Mal. The palette is tinted with pale shades of damask rose, cream and red, flanked by nocturnal tones of midnight blue, burgundy and gunmetal grey. The relaxed three-buttons and double-breasted lines characterize the soft – sometimes sleeveless – jackets in shiny cotton, matched with trousers with wide or straight legs and chain belts at the waist. Part of Keller’s inspiration for this collection came from the biker’s world where knitwear wraps the bust like a second skin under which tailored jackets and cargo pants are styled in a game of formal and informal codes.
Many details had a 90’s feel and overall the collection aimed to be a combination of sportswear and modern tailoring at which Waight Keller is very adept.