I AM YOUR MIRRORGivenchy sculpted uniorms

A dual sexuality observed
in a genderless union

 

An abstract idea of mirrors informs the spring/summer 2019 women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collection by artistic director Clare Waight Keller. Manifesting the notion of the Givenchy couple, the designer mirrors female and male in each other and cross-pollinates their gender characteristics. The transition evokes memories of iconoclasts of the past, enabling a free interaction of eras across the collection. In tailoring developed in the Haute Couture ateliers, a new shoulder takes shape: petite in proportion, it sends a strict crease down the front of the sleeve and swings in sculpturally at the waist. The dimension is contrasted by high-waist trousers overblown in volume, cut low on the hip but structured with a hint of a basque. Facets borrowed from military dress nod at a sense of gender-non-specific uniformity.

Signifying a further take on mirroring, the patterns draw together, disappear, dissolve and explode into circular flower formations. Morphing into silver embroideries, the theme of reflection is expressed in metallic elements achieved through artisanal processes: dresses in silver lace lacquered in silver and applied with silver resin create a foil effect, while silver outerwear comes to life through leather lamination.