A vivid cotton sculpture created by German artist Franz Erhard Walther stands out in the LOEWE fashion show location within the UNESCO House as the focal point of the first men’s fashion show designed by Creative Director Jonathan Anderson. Entitled Gelbe Modellierung (1985), the ‘wall formation’ canvas, divided into various parts, is the result of the performative experience of the artist, who encourages the viewer to interact with the elements of the wardrobe: in this case, two jackets and two legs of trousers are fused to the fragmented yellow surface.
The work dialogues with the Fall/Winter 2019/20 collection, suggesting a hybrid abstraction on a human scale, in which the usefulness of the garment and its meaning are questioned. By reconsidering construction and size, LOEWE‘s craftsmanship manifests itself in an unexpected way, combining incongruous ideals of masculinity in which the universes of tailoring tradition and team sports collide. Shearling and camel cashmere outwear enhances everyday life. Trompe l’oeil on garments with shearling and coconut details, culminate in soft quilted leather in pastel shades or in a coat with fringes made from cashmere scarves. On top of the calfskin fishing boots left open, relaxed jersey jerseys and tunics are reminiscent of camping blankets and rugby stripes. The long jerseys collect memorabilia: beads like pebbles and naive designs, while bound thread knitted cardigans evoke a rough workmanship. Like the layered shapes of Walther, the elongated sleeves appear under the new tuxedos featuring a two-button screwed jacket and asymmetrical lapels.