As Paris is getting ready to welcome another wave of luxurious men’s fashion, Italy is at last getting some rest after yet another interesting fashion week. Looking back at the past shows and events it is clear in which direction fashion’s currently facing toward: creative’s are aiming to generate a new consciousness, ones that looks for a sustainable future, inclusivity and revolutionary ideas. We are currently at a crossroad — one we’ve been hurtling toward for years with the influence of technology. In editorial, the divide lies between digital and print.
For brands, young customers versus heritage. Consumerism and recycling. The challenge — and the art — lies in the industry’s ability to compromise and the game is changing faster than we can process it. During this past fashion week, these poles appear in neat contrast. Brands are looking at what they already have rather than seeking new mesmerising materials.
With the claim “Use the Existing” Ermenegildo Zegna opened Milan Fashion Week in the old Falck Iron Factory in the outskirts of the city; Mister Sartori presented a collection where substance-wise, the 20 precent of the clothes were made from Zegna’s textiles waste products. Oldness will be the new newness and the fabric’s development department at Zegna headquarters knows it well. Moving on from the industrial hinterland of Milan, Francesco Risso at Marni presented a collection peculiar as the fictional marriage behind it: Truman Capote and Ernesto CheGuevara, a tropical rebellion, a beautiful guerrilla. A roof made out of a net of bottles recovered from sea and woods, symbolised the garbage invasion in our resistant Mother Earth. From an environmental to a youthful rebellion, Versace celebrated the Rave culture and New Wave with a collection inspired by the late Prodigy’s frontman Keith Flint. An hymn to the spirit of rebellious adolescence, translated into bleached acid colours and over-the-top hairstyles.
The tie-dye appeared as one of the trend’s that next season will bring in, reinterpreted in fresh and versatile ways, from roaring vibrancy of Versace’s to the delicate and artisanal approach of MSGM. “The Summers of the Mind” was a pivotal theme in Giorgetti’s latest collection, this year presented at Pitti Man and celebrating the 10th anniversary of the brand. Summer and Nature’s theme have been present in many collections and seen in various declinations; Fendi’s garden is an oasis of idyllic tranquility and its man a botanical creature. A bouquet of glitching flowers inspired by Le Fluers Du Mal was Claire Waight Keller’s starting point for her first Men’s collection at Givenchy. Set in the gardens of Villa Palmieri in Florence, the french maison imagined a modern tailoring for an urban man deeply connected to the nature surrounding him.
The eternal beauty of Florence was also picked as backdrop for Ferragamo’s SS 2020, that immersed in the suggestive scenario of Piazza della Signoria introduced a collection that celebrates the city close to the heart of the brand. Traditional artisanship heritage and modern tailoring has been another big presence in the collections presented this week, a sign that Fashion is looking at the future but always keeping an eye on the cultural richness of the past.
Leaving a bucolic scenario to move back onto the big cities, Dsquared2 exhibited a collection inspired by the far East. The neon lights of China’s metropolis and vintage action movies were the main inspirations for the Dsquared2’s man. East meets the West and it’s love at first sight.
In conclusion, fashion is focusing on what the future has to bring us but without leaving anything to the case. The choices we make today will impact our future and we have to grow a new awareness to face it.