|Coherence, style, héritage.
The winter of Rochas designed by Alessandro Dell’Acqua, returns to the roots of the brand created by Marcel Rochas in 1925, then relaunched by his wife Hélène in 1955. In an era of streetwear, the Neapolitan designer reversed the helm, stating that “it’s time to regain possession of his image and personality without chasing trends”.
So from the very first steps, we simply and without a cliché concentrate on the couture spirit of the French maison. Complex processes such as feather-treated wool, XXL volumes and romantic drapes that give lightness, the use of precise constructions for basque jackets dominate. Great use was made of precious fabrics such as lace, tulle and organza, which work both during the day and at night. The bouclée wool suits, illuminated with resin fringes as if they were jewels in jais, underline the wide slits and construction of each garment. Precise, with a few skilfully calibrated tones, the chromatic palette also speaks of timeless elegance. Black, the favourite colour of the Parisians, is prevalently omnipresent. It lights up on contact with tobacco and Prussian blue. She sweetens elsewhere near a powdery pink. And there is also room for a note of romance with a rose print, almost like an eccentric note. Everything swells, opens, to give space to the long cuissardes, easy and snappy as no sneaker could be, thus giving a modern cut to the collection. Stephen Jones, special guest of the season, reveals the aesthetics of daytime looks with his sculptural black resin hats.