BALANCE CONCEPTJil Sander between lightness and volume

An exploration of the relationship between masculinity and femininity is always at the core of Lucie and Luke Meier’s work at Jil Sander.

An exploration of the relationship between masculinity and femininity is always at the core of Lucie and Luke Meier’s work at Jil Sander. The Fall/Winter 2019 collection pushes this dialog further as the contrast between the two feelings is heightened in silhouette, palette, and fabrication.

In one aspect, the silhouette is feminine with elongation; soft-formed knits with crocheted corsetry, bustier dresses, light silk and satin coats that are strict at the shoulder but drape over a relaxed trouser with extended splits at the sides. The contrast is felt in the pure, sculptural 3D forms and geometric dresses and coats that float off the body: while generous in volume the shapes are pure, sharp, and graphic, achieving the impression of an outline. Construction lines are emphasized as part of the aesthetic with undulating and dimensional, lending a structural importance. Delicate necklines, sleeve shapes, and splits reveal the body underneath. Layering is pared back.
Fabrics are noble while their structures and textures utilize opposition.

Substantial men’s fabrics are present but are handled delicately. Felts are raw cut and worked with traditional couture technique leaving them light and airy; Japanese suiting wools follow the body form emphasizing the sculptural lines; papery leathers are split extremely thin and are rouched and folded; natural fibre canvasses, cotton voiles, and open weave structures are delicately pleated or applied. Chenilles, silks, and satins demonstrate a strong, feminine contrast. Silk crepe and satin are inflated and padded, offering comfort.
The birds, herons, sand pipers, and swallows, printed on the front or the back of shirts, woven into cottons, or printed on suedes, underline the collection’s search for a balance between lightness and volume. Striping is bold. Traditional blanket stitch hand embroidery, tea towel patchwork, and soft padding all lend comfort in both fabrication and concept.

 

An exploration of the relationship between masculinity and femininity is always at the core of Lucie and Luke Meier’s work at Jil Sander. The Fall/Winter 2019 collection pushes this dialog further as the contrast between the two feelings is heightened in silhouette, palette, and fabrication.

In one aspect, the silhouette is feminine with elongation; soft-formed knits with crocheted corsetry, bustier dresses, light silk and satin coats that are strict at the shoulder but drape over a relaxed trouser with extended splits at the sides. The contrast is felt in the pure, sculptural 3D forms and geometric dresses and coats that float off the body: while generous in volume the shapes are pure, sharp, and graphic, achieving the impression of an outline. Construction lines are emphasized as part of the aesthetic with undulating and dimensional, lending a structural importance. Delicate necklines, sleeve shapes, and splits reveal the body underneath. Layering is pared back.
Fabrics are noble while their structures and textures utilize opposition.

Substantial men’s fabrics are present but are handled delicately. Felts are raw cut and worked with traditional couture technique leaving them light and airy; Japanese suiting wools follow the body form emphasizing the sculptural lines; papery leathers are split extremely thin and are rouched and folded; natural fibre canvasses, cotton voiles, and open weave structures are delicately pleated or applied. Chenilles, silks, and satins demonstrate a strong, feminine contrast. Silk crepe and satin are inflated and padded, offering comfort.
The birds, herons, sand pipers, and swallows, printed on the front or the back of shirts, woven into cottons, or printed on suedes, underline the collection’s search for a balance between lightness and volume. Striping is bold. Traditional blanket stitch hand embroidery, tea towel patchwork, and soft padding all lend comfort in both fabrication and concept.