| A sensibility of couture, a spirit of now. The Dior Men’s Winter 2019-2020 collection by Artistic Director Kim Jones draws on the attitudes and imprints of the house of Dior’s couture heritage – shapes, techniques, materials, ethos – then reinvents them anew. It is mirrored today in a collaboration with the artist Raymond Pettibon. All become, in essence, acts of translation: from feminine to masculine, from art to fashion, from then to now. Examining the past, making it speak to the future. The inspiration is all derived from Dior, from the house’s emblems and markers, and then evolved. Animalier, drapery, architectural tailoring, a soft color palette, de luxe Haute Couture materials. An unmistakable, often imitated but never equaled elegance. A Parisian Sentiment. The technique of moulage – the couture method of draping directly on the form – inspires gestures of fabric used to frame tailoring. The asymmetry of the diagonally-wrapped tailleur oblique is further explored through coats with panels that wrap across buttons, disrupting the precision of their shape.
Reflecting Dior’s love of and fascination with the art world, Kim Jones collaborates with the artist Raymond Pettibon for this collection. A curation of existing drawings are shown alongside debuts of entirely new works specially-created by Pettibon, and evolved into prints, knits, jacquards, and hand-embroideries.
|A figure subconsciously influenced by the mona lisa; a pair of eyes staring into the future against an impressionistic sky. These references to classical art are joined by works inspired by Dior; a spray-painted version of the Dior animal print – punk panthère – which resembles a floral, and a reimagining of the house’s logotype, used in jewelry. Underscoring the crossing from the feminine to the masculine world, accessories continue to translate the ‘saddle’ bag into a men’s wardrobe. Today, Kim Jones’ reinterpretation is executed in nylon or lush leopard-patterned mink as a new cross-body style; backpacks, also in nylon, feature Dior’s signature cannage quilting. The ‘saddle’ becomes a pocket on utility gloves elongated to opera length.
The collection is presented as a series of tableaux vivants along a vast, 76-meter-long moving walkway, like a couture salon showing of the past but on an operatic scale. In place of the monolithic statues of the previous two seasons, here the looks form the centerpiece, striking poses in sculptural attitudes that, like classical artworks, throw shade. Shown in the heart of the french capital, this Dior men’s collection – like the house of Dior, like the art of haute couture itself – is fundamentally, quintessentially parisian.