I started traveling back to London from California, in early may last year.
After spending a lot of time in London in the early 2000s documenting the then emerging indie music scene, I have maintained a strong connection to Britain and predominantly British music. I had been listening to some interesting new music coming out of the UK, a resurgence of the new wave and post punk sound, and initially returned there to photograph some of these inspiring young musicians. From that point onwards, the collection began to build itself as a way of documenting, or a “Polaroid” snapshot of this young British creative community.
Traditional tailoring is at the heart of the collection, pushing further the new rectangular volume that i began last season for CELINE.
Tweeds, donegals, and cashmere overcoats worn over CELINE tailored suits or leather jackets define my research into suspended proportions. I had begun to develop the idea of a classic bowl haircut for the inaugural show and campaign. It’s something that has become more prominent for this first men’s show. I spent a few months in England in the fall building the show, and going to a lot of concerts while street casting. I photographed crack cloud collective on stage in london in October and their music was clearly the right sound and energy for this collection – it had almost an experimental no-wave feeling to it.
We commissioned the band to produce the track “Philosopher’s Calling” for the show.
The saxophone section when they played live made me think of James Chance who I had photographed in NY a few years ago. I have always been a big admirer of James Chance, his legendary style as a historical, post-punk figure. I wanted to create a connection between these two generations and asked if James would play with crack cloud for the first men’s show at CELINE.